Saltwater Satisfaction: The Pleasures of Surfing in Ireland

By Cian McDonagh

“You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf” - Jon Kabat-Zinn

In the modern world, fleeting pleasures are easy to come by, but often they are void of satisfaction. For me and for an ever increasing number of Irish people, the ultimate pleasure and source of satisfaction is found through surfing. While this chilly windswept island may seem far removed from the sun-kissed beaches of Australia, California, and Hawaii, Ireland has waves to rival them all. Just not as often. Throughout the year, storms in the north Atlantic provide the perfect ground swells to get the beaches, reefs, and peninsulas of Kerry, Clare and Donegal pumping. 

Surfing arrived on the Irish shores in the early 1960s, inspired by photos of Hawaiians surfing, Kevin Cavey brought the first surfboard to the Emerald Isle. Similarly in Rossnowlagh, Co. Donegal, Mary Britton ordered two surfboards for her hotel in the seaside town. Surfboards that became primarily used by her son Barry Britton. One of the patriarchs of Irish surfing, or as he jovially calls himself “Ireland's Beach Bum”. What followed was a slow but steady rise of the sport’s popularity across the south and west coast of the country. In 1965, Kevin Cavey established Bray Surf Club. By the 70s, there were several clubs across Ireland in Tramore, Lahinch, Strandhill, and Bundoran. In 2024, there will be over 20,000 surfers in Ireland encompassing all levels of ability. While some surfers are better than others, that does not mean the pleasure derived from it is any different. As many surfers can attest, the ecstasy of your first wave is something that every rider is trying to recreate with each surf. The brief thrill is not the only pleasure provided by chasing the waves.

The rising popularity of “blue health” describes the holistic experience of getting in the ocean which provides stress relief and a mental reset. Surfing is the perfect balance between physical activity, meditation, and blue health. Surfing provides an isolation from distractions, you cast away from the shore and immerse yourself in nature with nothing but your board and a single-minded focus on catching your next wave. The hard work you put in while being tossed around by the elements only makes the reward of a wave that much more satisfying.There is no feeling in the world that beats the content of a day spent in the water, warm food, hot drink and a cosy blanket become beacons of fulfilment, for they have been earned. There is no time like the present for prospective Irish surfers to take the plunge. Ireland has over 60 surf schools dotted around the country on some of Europe’s most pristine beaches. The sports rapid rise in popularity has made surfing increasingly accessible. The closest surfing beaches to Cork City being those of Garretstown and Inch beach, both of which host surf schools and are approximately 40 minutes drive from the city centre. For UCC students looking for an introduction into surfing then consider UCC’s very own surf club as a way of trying out the sport. The club has several trips every year to various keystones of the Irish surf scene such as the towns of Lahinch and Bundoran.

For the uninitiated, the cold water can be a turn off, but with advancements in wetsuit technology there is no need to fear the chill. Having the right gear is a must, but luckily, it can be provided by the surf schools for those looking to dip their toe into the pleasures of surfing. Surfing is so much more than just the act of wave riding, it encompasses personal growth, adventures of Ireland's coast line and physical and mental wellbeing. So perhaps we should all be a bit of a beach bum and enjoy the pleasures of the Irelands perfect waves .